La Domestique
I’ve got creative ideas for cooking with lentils during winter:
1. Lentil Salad
The Lentil and Walnut Salad from Nigella Express is my absolute favorite lentil salad recipe. Cooked French Puy (green) lentils are dressed in a walnut oil and sherry vinaigrette and served with chopped walnuts and chives. I like to add goat cheese, sautéed mushrooms, and bacon for a balance of tangy, earthy, meaty, and herby flavor. Another unique lentil salad recipe can be found in the lovely cookbook, Homemade, where cook and illustrator Yvette Van Boven combines cooked green lentils with crunchy red apple, cilantro, sliced celery, golden raisins, and endive. A simple garlic-red wine vinaigrette brightens this winter dish.
2. Chili Lentils for Tacos
Pam Anderson’s new collection of recipes, Cook Without a Book, is full of vegetarian inspiration. I think her method of using stewed brown lentils with tomato, garlic, and onion for taco filling is very clever. It’s a hearty mixture spiced with chili powder, cumin, and oregano. Serve the chili lentils buffet style with tortillas, taco shells, and her bright and refreshing Cabbage Slaw. I like a vegetarian recipe that doesn’t force things, this is a smart and flavorful use of healthy ingredients for a satisfying meatless Monday supper.
3. Beluga Lentil Crostini
Heidi Swanson shares a delightful recipe for Beluga Lentil Crostini in her first book, Super Natural Cooking. She describes the flavor of these tiny black pulses as earthy with a bit of grassiness. During the last days of winter, before the first tender salad greens have sprouted, I could stave off my yearning for spring with one of her garlic-rubbed toasts, slathered in goat cheese with a sprinkling of chives and a spoonful of cooked beluga lentils.
4. Lentil Soup
It seems red lentil soup is en vogue right now. In the February issue of Food & Wine Magazine, Salma Abdelnour writes, “I hope one result of all the eyes on Egypt will be a renewed interest in its culture, including its food traditions.” Her article, A Lesson in Egyptian Classics, includes a recipe for sherbet ads, Egyptian Red Lentil Soup spiced with cumin and chile. I like the “Arabic-style” croutons sprinkled on top, which are torn pita breads fried until crunchy. I’ll be making this soup on the blog tomorrow. I’m also loving the recipes and photography in Whole Living Magazine, especially this Red Lentil Soup with Turnip and Parsleythat was part of the 28 Day Mind+Body Challenge.
5. Peas and Lentils
The recipe for Peas and Lentils from the Moro East cookbook by husband and wife chefs Sam & Sam Clark brings a little bit of spring into the late winter pantry. I like the pairing of fresh vibrant flavors (think peas and herb infused lemon sauce) with earthy brown lentils. Plus, the ingredients can all be found easily this time of year. Cooked lentils are combined with cooked petit pois, fresh mint, sage, extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, and red wine vinegar. The dish is meant to be served warm, and would be lovely aside roast chicken. I turn to the Moro cookbooks for their unique flavor combinations which are guaranteed to get me out of a cooking rut.
6. Lentils Castellucciano
I first learned of Lentils Castellucciano from Nancy Silverton’s Mozza Cookbook, where she writes about using Umbrian lentils exclusively in her Mozza restaurant. Nancy shares that the small, brown-green lentils come from the Italian town of Castelluccio, where they prepare the lentils like a stew or ragu. The technique involves sautéing diced proscuitto in a hot pan, then adding the holy trinity of diced onion, carrot, and celery, with garlic. A little tomato paste in the pan caramelizes, adding depth of flavor. Pour in the lentils and cook risotto style, adding a little stock at a time and stirring until the lentils are creamy. I found a similar recipe in the Pasta Sfoglia cookbook, where Chef Ron Suhanosky serves the lentils with penne and plenty of freshly grated Parmesan.
7. Curried Chickpea, Lentil, and Swiss Chard Stew
This recipe from Patricia Wells’ Vegetable Harvest has several things going for it, first, lentils combine beautifully with other legumes, like starchy chickpeas. Also, curry powder adds pungent, spicy, floral, and earthy flavors to the dish. Lastly, greens like Swiss chard, spinach, or kale are also delicious with the earthy legumes. It’s a simple dish, requiring the green lentils cook with sweated onions, a bouquet garni, and the spices for about 20 minutes. Canned chickpeas are added to the pot along with chopped Swiss chard to simmer for a few minutes. Serve the stew with Greek yogurt and toasted cumin seeds.
8. Lentil Cakes
I’m attracted to these South Indian Lentil Cakes with Raita by Marcie Turney over at Savuer because #1 I love pancakes and #2 intense flavors and pretty colors of spicy ginger, aromatic basmati, fresh mint, green peas, and peppery lentils are more than welcome at my winter table. The green patties are assembled, then pan fried and served with raita, a garlicky yogurt sauce.
9. Lentil and Squash Pasties
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is a genius, if only for including the fantastic recipe in River Cottage EveryDay for pocket-pies filled with thyme-infused stewed lentils (green or brown) and butternut squash. The hearty filling is flavored with balsamic vinegar and hot English mustard, then spooned into Hugh’s modified puff pastry recipe (though he says a short crust will do). After 25 minutes in the oven the pasties are golden and ready to pack for lunch.
10. Lentils with Fish
Lentils and fish are another complimentary pairing. I like the contrast in texture between lentils and crispy, pan fried fish, exemplified in the recipe for Pan-Roasted Striped Bass with Lentils from The Young Man & The Sea. Chef David Pasternack cooks lentils in mirepoix, diced pancetta, and water until tender, risotto style. Striped bass fillets are dredged in delicate Wondra flour and seared in hot oil. Serve the fish over the lentils with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and sea salt. Or try the recipe for Fried Red Mullet with Lentils, Lemon & Oil from How to Roast a Lamb: New Greek Classic Cooking. Lentils are braised in red wine with thyme, half the batch pureed, the other left whole. Red mullet fillets are coated with garlic puree and mustard, wrapped in sage, then dredged in flour, skewered and fried until golden brown. Sounds amazing, no?
What is your favorite way to cook with lentils? Let me know in the comments section. Click Here.
Lentils are a true winter pantry staple. If you’ve got a jar of these dried legumes in the cupboard, you’ve got the beginnings of a hearty, comforting meal. Known as pulses, the dried seed of a plant from the lentil species combines well with other pantry ingredients, which is great for this season when fresh produce is so lacking. Green French lentils (also known as Puy lentils) pair beautifully with earthy dried mushrooms, toasted walnuts, dried herbs, fried eggs, and have a special fondness for bacon. Egyptian red lentils simmer happily in soups with dried chile, canned tomato, and Middle Eastern spices. Cooking with lentils is about using the right variety for the right recipe. Green lentils have a seed coat, which helps maintain their perfect lens shape and slightly firm texture during cooking, making them better for lentil salad or fritters. Red lentils have no seed coat, and thus fall apart even when gently simmered. They are best for pureed soups where this texture won’t matter.
This week at la Domestique is dedicated to cooking with lentils, combining their earthy, peppery flavor with ingredients from the winter pantry. We’ll explore red, green, brown, and yellow lentils through the cuisines of France, Italy, India, northern Africa, and the Middle East. Lentils are good for stretching meals, adding heft to soups and stews, providing protein in winter salads, and combining well with leftovers. They are well-suited to meatless meals, full of protein and fiber that really stays with you. According to The Deluxe Food Lover’s Companion, lentils stored in an airtight container will keep for a year. These pulses are thrifty, costing about $2 a pound here in the United States. Prepare lentils by rinsing them and checking for stones, which can be accidentally thrown into the batch during harvest. Cooking lentils is easy, as they need no special care, only about half an hour in simmering liquid. Prepare them ahead of time to add to stews, salads, and pasta dishes. Tomorrow is 10 Ways Tuesday and I’ve got plenty of modern, creative ideas for cooking with lentils during winter.
Do you cook with lentils? What is your favorite variety? Share your tips in the comments section.
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It’s 6:00 am. I can hear my husband’s alarm softly ringing from his cell phone on the bedside table. My eyes open, and I’m startled by a wet nose in my face. Minnie, our daschund, is asleep between us, blissfully unaware that it’s Monday. The sun has yet to rise, and after my husband silences the alarm we both shut our eyes for a few minutes more.
The alarm goes off again, this time more urgently. My husband springs from the bed, breaking free from a deep sleep. The dog groans and boroughs further into the covers. I stumble out of bed and into the bathroom. Splashing water on my face washes the sleep from my eyes, along with fragile memories of last night’s dreams. I scurry into the kitchen to make breakfast, ears perked, taking note of where he’s at in the getting ready for work process. The sound of running water in the bathroom sink lets me know he’s shaving, I have plenty of time.
Over the years, breakfast has become our favorite meal together. The day is still unwritten, a clean slate to be filled. As the sun rises, shining golden rays through the large windows of our top-floor apartment, I set the table with cloth napkins and tea cups. It’s a proper breakfast, some days pancakes, or eggs and bacon with toast. Today, I feel like cooking something special. Inspired by the flavors of Morocco, I prepare a bed of rose water infused couscous adorned with slices of citrus. Mint leaves, yogurt, and a drizzle of honey finish off this bright and stimulating dish, a cheerful way to start a cold winter day.
The sound of water boiling in our tea kettle signals breakfast is ready. We sit at the table together and he pours me a cup of tea. Conversation about the day ahead inevitably leads to a lively discussion of business and current affairs. He tells me about his next project at work and I listen intently. I share plans for an upcoming photo shoot and he gets excited about my ideas. We laugh, we argue, we dream about the future and reminisce about the past. He offers me a hot drop to warm my tea and before we know it, he’s late for work. Again.
We hug and he’s out the door. I smile. How lucky we are to linger over breakfast together- still holding on to every moment, after eight years. When you’re married to your best friend, every day is Valentine’s day.
Each week I contribute an article expanding on one of the 10 Ways Tuesday ideas to the Whole Foods Market Cooking Boulder website. To learn more about this recipe and read the full article, click on the icon below.
Rose Water Scented Couscous with Citrus, Yogurt, and Almonds
serves 2 generously
Ingredients
1 tangelo
1 blood orange
1 mandarin orange
3/4 cups water
1/2 cup couscous
1 cinnamon stick
6 green cardamom pods
1/4 cup sliced almonds
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 pinches powdered sugar
1 tablespoon melted butter
zest from 1 Meyer lemon
rose water
1 small container of Greek yogurt, 6 ounces honey
a small handful of fresh mint leaves for garnish
Prepare the citrus, cutting off the peel and segmenting the fruit into bite sized pieces.
Cook the couscous. Place the grains in a small pot with the cinnamon stick, cardamom pods (lightly crushed with a spoon), and a couple of pinches of sea salt. Boil water in a kettle or separate pot, then pour it over the couscous. Cover the couscous with a lid and let it steam until the liquid is absorbed, about 5-10 minutes.
Toast the almonds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring in ground cinnamon. Cook until the almonds are golden brown and fragrant, just a couple of minutes. Pour the toasted almonds into a town and sprinkle with a couple of pinches of powdered sugar. Set aside.
Once the couscous is done steaming, fluff it with a fork, discarding the cinnamon stick and cardamom pods. Pour melted butter over the couscous and stir in Meyer lemon zest plus 1/2 teaspoon rose water.
Divide the couscous into two bowls. Stir 1/4 teaspoon rose water into the citrus and arrange the citrus segments atop the couscous. Place a couple spoonfuls of yogurt in the center of the couscous and drizzle honey over top. Garnish the couscous with the sliced almonds and fresh mint leaves. Serve immediately.
The Julia Child Rose growing in the garden of my friend Carolyn, last summer
I’ve got creative ideas for cooking with rosewater and dried rosebuds in winter:
1. Rosewater Madeleines
Madeleines are miniature French sponge cakes, baked in a cute little sea shell shape. They are dainty and sweet, a simple “cookie” made with butter, sugar, and eggs that lends itself to endless variations from lemon to chocolate, or even a hint of rosewater. The delicate perfume of rose can really be appreciated in madeleines, and Martha Stewart adds her special touch with a sprinkling of pink sanding sugar to decorate the cookies just as they come out of the oven. I found a couple of different approaches to baking rosewater madeleines: Martha bakes the cookies plain, then brushes them with rosewater syrup once cooked, while Nigella Lawson incorporates the rose water into the madeleine batter in her recipe from How to be a Domestic Goddess.
2. Ras el Hanout
Ras el hanout is a Moroccan spice blend, call it a curry, that translates to “top of the shop.” The souks in Marrakech each sell their own blends made from the finest spices they have to offer. According to The Deluxe Food Lover’s Companion, ras el hanout can include up to 50 ingredients, typically ginger, anise, cinnamon, nutmeg, peppercorns, dried chili peppers, cloves, cardamom, dried flowers, nigella, mace, galangal, saffron, and turmeric. Purchase the spice blend from a shop or make your own to use in tagines, as a spice rub for meats (especially game and lamb), and an aromatic flavoring for couscous or rice. In Tunisia, ras el hanout is simplified into a spice blend of cinnamon and dried rosebuds called bharat. Rose is less stringent and soapy than lavender, and when combined carefully with other spices it lifts and lightens the blend with just a touch of floral character. On her website, Paula Wolfert shares a recipe for Tunisian Egg and Parsley Tagine, a sort of baked casserole made with lamb, beans, cheese, eggs, and bharat. Cooking with dried rosebuds may seem strange, but trying something new is a great way to stimulate your palate and your creativity in the kitchen.
3. Cocktails
Royal Rose Syrups is a Brooklyn company specializing in small batch, handmade, “organic and natural simple syrups for cocktails.” This husband and wife team are passionate about what they do, and share several recipes for cocktails made with their Royal Rose “Rose” Syrup. My favorite is the Gray Lady, made with crème de voilette, the rose syrup, lemon juice, Bittercube Jamaican bitters, Bols Genever, and an egg white. I could also go for the simple gin and tonic with a lady-like twist: Hendricks gin, rose syrup, lime juice, and tonic. For these recipes and more cocktails with rose syrup, head over to Royal Rose.
4. Creamy Rose Panna Cotta
Panna Cotta is a silky, luxurious dessert from Italy, which translates to “cooked cream.” Gelatin is used to achieve a creamy, pudding-like texture that can be flavored with other ingredients such as rosewater. In this recipe for Creamy Rose Panna Cotta by Erin Eastland, heavy cream is simmered with vanilla bean, combined with gelatin, sugar, yogurt, crème fraîche, and rose syrup, then poured into ramekins and chilled. Martha Stewart shares a recipe for Panna Cotta Tart in her Cooking School book that involves pouring the panna cotta into a tart shell before allowing it to chill. Serve the tart with macerated fruit, like dried figs or cherries preserved in syrup.
5. Garam Masala
Reading Herbs & Spices, the cook’s reference, I learned that gram masala is Indian for hot, masala referring to a blend of spices. This northern Indian spice blend is most often added to a dish at the end of cooking, to keep the aroma lively and accent the other flavors. I found instructions for blending Garam Masala (II) in the India Cookbook, but in Herbs & Spices this blend of garam masala is called Punjabi masala, and it’s made with black cardamom, green cardamom, fennel seeds, mace, black cumin, ground ginger, cinnamon, coriander seeds, black peppercorns, cloves, tejpat leaves, and dried rose petals. The recipe for Pot-Roasted Chicken with Indian Spices from Herbs & Spices is a good way to ease in to cooking with gram masala. The spice blend is combined with fresh ginger, garlic, salt, and butter to make a paste, which is then rubbed all over a chicken before roasting in the oven. Just imagine how amazing your house will smell! The author, Jill Norman suggests serving the chicken with lemon wedges, chutney, yogurt, and a bowl of rice. Another great recipe using garam masala is this Spicy Chickpea Soup with coconut milk and tomatoes by Pam Anderson.
6. Fruit Salad with Rosewater
In her original classic, Couscous and Other Good Food From Morocco, Paula Wolfert includes a recipe for Orange Salad with Rosewater, and writes that “oranges, rose water, and cinnamon make an outstanding combination,” She sprinkles slices of navel orange with rosewater, cinnamon, and confectioner’s sugar and serves the dish as either a refreshing appetizer or dessert. Her salad inspired me to create a breakfast recipe of couscous and citrus flavored with rosewater, cinnamon, and mint (to be featured on the blog tomorrow). Another recipe for fruit salad with rosewater can be found in Claudia Roden’s The New Book of Middle Eastern Food. She slices bananas, pears, kiwis, strawberries, pineapple, and grapes, then sprinkles the mixture with lemon juice, rosewater, and sugar. The fruit macerates for an hour, developing a sweet and fragrant syrup. Wouldn’t that be a nice breakfast treat?
7. Café Blanc
Greg and Cindy Malouf have written many cookbooks on cuisines of the Middle East, and at the very end of their book, Saha: A Chef’s Journey Through Lebanon and Syria, you’ll find Café Blanc. The next time your nerves are frayed, try this concoction: a cup of hot water, sugar to taste, and 1 teaspoon of rosewater. Café Blanc, known as Kahwa Beida in Arabic, is a soothing drink that should be sipped slowly.
8. Rosewater Yogurt Dressing for Spicy Scallops
This idea comes from Tyler Florence, as part of a recipe for Scallops with Chickpea Puree, Chorizo Oil, and Yogurt. He serves seared scallops atop chickpea puree with a drizzle of spicy chorizo oil and yogurt thinned with buttermilk and flavored with rosewater. In this dish, spicy heat is balanced with floral rosewater, which is really a sophisticated move. Tangy yogurt is a fantastic partner to sweet and rich scallops, while chickpeas provide a nutty backdrop. The concept of his rosewater yogurt dressing would also work for a salad of bitter winter greens or even a sauce for spicy lamb pita. It’s a simple idea that could add a special touch to many of the dishes you make on a regular basis.
9. Rosewater Sorbet
I first came across a recipe for Apple-Rosewater Sorbet in the book, Artichoke to Za’atar, by Greg and Cindy Malouf. I like the idea of tart green apples with subtle rosewater and a bit of spice from cinnamon, juniper, and cloves. In the recipe, diced apples are simmered until meltingly tender, then pureed and combined with a sugar syrup made from the flavorings. The mixture goes into an ice cream maker and you’ve got a lovely dessert to serve at an afternoon party or finish of a heavy evening meal. This recipe for Mango and Rosewater Sorbet from Ingrid Hoffmann is made by pureeing frozen mango with white wine, rose water, and lime syrup in a food processor, and you don’t need an ice cream maker.
10. Layered Gelee
I’m smitten by this gorgeous dessert from Martha Stewart Weddings, Layered Gelee is sophisticated and delicate, the perfect dessert for a wedding. Each of the four layers is a different flavor and hue, making for beautiful presentation in a tall glass. Ginger-cream gelatin is pure white, heavy cream infused with zippy fresh ginger. Lychee-gelatin is made with exotic canned lychee juice. Rosé-champagne gelatin is made with pink bubbly. Rose-cream gelatin is heavy cream flavored with rosewater. This dessert can be made up to 2 days in advance, so it’s great for entertaining.
What is your favorite way to cook with dried rosebuds or rosewater? Let me know in the comments section. Click Here.
You may be hoping to receive a delivery this Valentine’s day, a dozen crimson roses surrounded by baby’s breath, perfuming the house or your office cubicle with their floral aroma. Here at la Domestique, I’m looking forward to cooking with roses all week, savoring the heady fragrance of brittle, dried rosebuds in spice blends and adding delicate rose water to fruit salads, pastries, and cocktails. Cooking with preserved rose essence brings spring into the winter pantry, battling the blues we feel during this time of year when fresh produce is difficult to find. Though using roses in the kitchen may seem bizarre, dried rose blossoms and rose water are a pantry staple in the Middle East and Northern India. It’s all about balance, though, and a heavy hand with this ingredient can easily overpower. Dried rosebuds are used in spice blends to balance floral and savory, spicy and calm, bitter and sweet. The musky aroma of dried rosebuds adds depth and intrigue to spice blends used in meaty stews, couscous dishes, and curries. Rose water, milder than orange flower water, is subtle, yet luxurious, in puddings, sorbets, cakes, and cookies.
Look for dried rosebuds and rose water in your local spice shop- you might be surprised at how readily available these ingredients are. According to the reference, Herbs & Spices, dried rosebuds will keep in an airtight container for up to a year, and you can grind them to use in recipes as needed. Store dried rosebuds in a glass jar and enjoy the beauty their pink petals add to your pantry. Rosewater comes in a dark bottle to protect the liquid from light. However, heat does not diminish the fragrance of rosewater, and so it may be employed to flavor simple syrups, baked goods, and hot beverages.
This week at la Domestique, you’ll find creative ideas for cooking with rose water and dried rosebuds during winter. Explore how the rose is used in cuisines across the globe, including Morocco, Tunisia, Iran, Syria, Lebanon, India, and France. Let this exotic ingredient inspire a renewed sense of adventure in your home cooking.
Do you cook with dried rosebuds or rose water? Share your ideas in tips in the comments section. Click Here.
Each week I contribute an article to the Whole Foods Market Cooking Boulder website expanding on one of the 10 Ways Tuesday ideas. This week I cooked and photographed a recipe for Boca Negra. For the full article, click on the icon below.
The name says it all- Boca Negra means black mouth in English, and it’s impossible to sneak a piece of this cake without anyone knowing. Your sticky fingers will leave smudged chocolate prints on the fridge door, and even after wiping your lips clean a tiny piece of evidence will linger on the corner of your mouth- not to mention the satisfied smile that will certainly tip off anyone who knows you well. Boca Negra is a rich, fudge-like cake infused with the flavor of smokey dried chipotle chiles. This recipe comes from Fany Gerson’s book, My Sweet Mexico, a heartfelt collection of traditional Mexican desserts and sweet treats. The book has a noble mission, manifest in Fany’s commitment to traveling Mexico in search of recipes passed down through generations orally, recipes at the brink of extinction as modern cuisine carries on without them. Fany was born and raised in Mexico, but here career as a pastry chef has taken her around the world. She writes of family matriarchs carefully guarding their treasured recipes, willing to “go to their grave with them rather than share.” Motivated by her desire to preserve these meaningful traditions, Fany spent time with people, earning their trust, and wrote a book that is much more than a collection of indulgent desserts. My Sweet Mexico is a history book, a dictionary of traditional Mexican ingredients, a map, a lesson in pastry technique, and a heartfelt trove of stories. Boca Negra is the very last recipe in the My Sweet Mexico, and Fany writes that this cake is one of her proudest creations. After baking it, I can see why.
I’m passionate about chocolate, hoarding my special bar of dark chocolate in a secret place, like a squirrel. All I need is one piece a day, which I savor quietly in the corner of the kitchen when no one is looking. During winter, my nightcap is a tiny teacup of hot chocolate before bed, and when selecting a dessert at a restaurant I will always go for the chocolate option. I take my chocolate pretty seriously and don’t like other ingredients disturbing the experience. In my opinion, nuts ruin a perfectly good brownie, orange overpowers, and fruity liqueur is a nuisance. Boca Negra turned my world upside down. It was love at first bite, as I tasted the luscious chocolate cake with a hint of citrus and felt the lingering heat in the back of my throat. Chocolate is the star of this cake, and the beauty of chipotle chile is its subtle, slowly building spice. The cake has a depth and character that stimulates the palate in a way that won’t soon be forgotten. For such a show-stealing dessert, Boca Negra is a simple cake to throw together.
As I toasted the whole dried chipotle chiles in a skillet, a smokey, earthy aroma filled the kitchen. While the chiles soaked in hot water for half an hour, I stirred together the rest of the ingredients: semi-sweet chocolate, butter, orange juice, sugar, eggs, and a scant amount of flour. Buy the best quality chocolate you can find, by the way. At the very last, the pureed chiles go into the batter, which can be baked in single-serving ramekins or as one 9-inch cake. I chose not to fuss with the ramekins or water bath. In about an hour, the cake developed a thin, delicate crust and though the interior set, it was very much like a flour-less chocolate cake- delicate and prone to collapse. For this reason I think it’s easiest to serve the cake straight from the pan, unless you used single-serving ramekins which can be inverted and served on their own. Fany includes a recipe for Sweet Tomatillo Sauce, which I did not try because tomatillos are not in season right now. I enjoyed the Boca Negra simply as is, but a little whipped cream would be lovely too.
Boca Negra
A chocolate cake infused with the flavor of dried chipotle from My Sweet Mexico by Fany Gerson
Ingredient List
1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, plus additional for greasing ramekins
1 cup sugar plus additional for dusting
6 medium dried chipotle chiles
6 tablespoons fresh orange juice
10 oz high-quality semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
4 large eggs
4 teaspoons all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
I’ve got creative ideas for cooking with dried chiles during winter:
1. Chocolate Dessert
In celebration of Valentine’s Day, I wanted to cook something special with chocolate and chile. Later this week at la Domestique, you’ll find a recipe for Boca Negra (chocolate cake with dried chipotle chiles) I discovered in the book, My Sweet Mexico, by Fany Gerson. It’s a simple semisweet chocolate cake with citrus notes from orange and the fruity dried chipotle. Achingly rich and moist, like a flour-less chocolate cake (only 1 1/2 tablespoons flour), Boca Negra refers to the black mouth you will have when you’re covered in chocolate after eating the cake. I also found a recipe for Chile Chocolate Almond Bark with Salt Crystals in Salted by Mark Bitterman that’s vegan friendly. Melted dark chocolate (70% cacao) is melted with dried Thai bird chiles or piquín chiles and poured over toasted almonds. A sprinkling of flour de del is the finishing touch.
2. Harissa
Harissa is a ubiquitous hot sauce in Africa, most popular in Tunisia where the cuisine is famously spicy. Often times you’ll see recipes including red bell pepper, but according to Herbs & Spices: The Cook’s Reference, it’s most often made with dried chilies. Marcus Samuelsson shares a recipe for Harissa in The Soul of a New Cuisine. Garlic is cooked in olive oil until golden, then the pan is removed from the heat. Ground caraway, chili powder, ground coriander, salt, and chopped fresh mint are added to the oil. Marcus Samuelsson uses Harissa to coat cubed lamb meat before it’s seared and served in a pita with chickpeas, tomatoes, and olives. However, Harissa is traditionally served as a condiment for Couscous with Seven Vegetables.
3. Canary Island Red Pepper Sauce (Mojo Rojo)
José Andrés wrote about the Canary Islands’ historical role in his cookbook, Made in Spain, as being the last port between Spain and the Americas. This string of small islands off the coast of Northwest Africa was a melting pot of cultures. As a result, African Harissa morphs into Mojo Rojo, a dried red pepper sauce made with pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika), dried guindilla pepper, garlic, cumin seeds, olive oil, salt, and sherry vinegar. While Harissa has an earthy and fruity flavor, Mojo Rojo is more pungent and piquant. My favorite way to enjoy Mojo Rojo is as an accompaniment to José Andrés’ recipe for Wrinkled Potatoes, Canary Island Style. The potatoes are cooked in salt, shriveling into tender goodness. You’ll find a la Domestique post devoted to this recipe, A Spanish Inspired Happy Hour, from last summer.
4. Indian Curry
According to The Deluxe Food Lover’s Companion, the word curry comes from the south-Indian word kari, or sauce. It’s a blend of spices that varies in India from region to region and family to family. Curry is a hot, spicy, aromatic, pungent, sweet, earthy mix of spices like chili pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, paprika, anise, mustard seed, coriander seed, and others. You can buy curry spice blends, make your own to keep in the pantry, or just combine the spices as you make the dish. The India Cookbook, a huge volume of 1000 Indian recipes, includes many curries. Veinchana Royyaalu (Curried Prawns/Shrimp) is prepared by marinating the shrimp in ginger and garlic paste with turmeric and lime juice. Onions are sautéed in oil with cardamom, cloves, aniseeds, chili powder, and ground coriander. Toss in tomatoes and the marinated shrimp, simmering for just a few minutes until cooked through. This recipe for Goan Shrimp Curry uses a combination of dried red chilies and jalapeños to add heat. I’m a big fan of vegetable curries, which are flavorful and filling for a meatless Monday supper. This Creamy Pumpkin and Cashew Curry gets its heat from dried chiles de árbol and luxurious body from coconut milk.
5. Mexican Mole
Mole is a traditional Mexican sauce served over chicken. It’s savory, dark, and has great depth of flavor from stewing together onion, garlic, dried and toasted chiles, sesame seeds, aromatic spices, and Mexican chocolate. When preparing mole, the cook devotes a lot of time to developing flavor in the ingredients by toasting spices, frying and soaking dried chiles, and reducing the sauce. According to Rick Bayless, in Mexico, mole is served with chicken roasted over a brick fire pit called a hornillo. In Fiesta at Rick’s, the chef writes that there is no such thing as an easy mole, time must be devoted to developing the sauce. However, he shares a recipe for “Easy” Slow Cooker Mole with Grilled Chicken that lets the crock pot do much of the work for you. His mole base is made from dried mulato, ancho, and pasilla chiles toasted in oil with garlic, almonds, and raisins. Canned tomatoes, Mexican chocolate, and charred bread thicken and enrich the sauce while spices like cinnamon, black pepper, anise, and cloves infuse the sauce with flavor. Leave the sauce to simmer in the crock pot for 6 hours and then puree it into a velvety, thick cloak for grilled chicken. It’s a satisfying meal for a snowy winter day.
6. Broccoli with Chile Dressing
One of my favorite vegetable preparations of all time is broccoli (or broccolini or rapini) with the heat of chili peppers, pungent garlic, and salty anchovy. Ever since I saw Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall prepare Purple Sprouting Broccoli with Anchovy and Chile Dressing, I was hooked. The recipe can be found in his River Cottage Cookbook. A can of anchovy fillets, olive oil, garlic cloves, thyme leaves, basil, crushed red pepper flakes (or try Aleppo pepper flakes like I used last week), Dijon, and red wine vinegar are combined in a blender and poured over steamed broccoli (or kale) as an appetizer. The recipe makes more than enough dressing, and I like how Hugh suggests using the excess as a “gentleman’s relish”, tossed into pasta, spread onto toast, or as a garnish for scrambled eggs.
7. Roasted Squash with Dried Red Chillies, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, and Goat Cheese
I came across a recipe for Whole Roasted Cricket Ball Squash in Jamie Oliver’s cookbook, Jamie at Home, which I love for the combination of fruity dried red chili and umami infused sun-dried tomato. Jamie hollows out whole gem or small acorn squash and seasons it with dried oregano, coriander seeds, and cinnamon. Sun-dried tomatoes and dried red chillies go into the hollowed out squash with a drizzle of the sun-dried tomato oil before roasting in the oven until tender. Serve one squash per person topped with lemony arugula salad and crumbly goat cheese. For the recipe and a video of Jamie cooking it, visit Rachael Ray’s site.
8. Thai Sweet and Sour Soup with Prawns
Thai Street Food by David Thompson is packed full of photographs depicting the gritty, hectic, colorful streets of Thailand and its food vendors. Though it may look like just another coffee table book, David Thompson shares flavorful recipes with plenty of history and information on the local culture. Reading about the importance of the chili pepper in Thai cuisine, I noticed that recipes didn’t just use one dried chili, instead dishes incorporate the flavor of dried chilies, fresh ones, and chili powder. It’s a great example that the flavor of chilies varies so much in these different forms, adding bright fruity notes; deep, earthy, essences; and the ever present heat. The recipe for Hot and Sour Soup with Prawns is made with dried long red chilies, fresh bird’s eye chilies, and chili powder. The broth is a combination of chicken stock, tomato, lemongrass, ginger, shallot, mushrooms, and coriander root.Each serving bowl is filled with a splash of lime juice, fish sauce, and fresh coriander before the steaming hot shrimp soup is stirred in. It’s complex, with a deep, spicy heat that builds with every slurp.
9. Slow-Cooked Carne Adovada with Hominy
In The Heart of the Artichoke, David Tanis devotes a chapter to the pleasure of cooking with chilies. He describes the recipe for Slow-Cooked Carne Adovada with Hominy and the New Mexican attitude as a “celebration of dried red chiles.” The large, leathery dried red peppers are toasted in a hot skillet, softened in water, then ground into a paste. Onion, garlic, coriander seeds, and bay leaf simmered in the chile puree and poured over a large pork shoulder which is baked for a couple of hours until it falls apart. I love the sweet, corny flavor of hominy and couldn’t think of a better accompaniment.
10. Chipotle Cheddar Biscuits
According to the guys who wrote Baked: New Frontiers in Baking, chipotle is perfect for adding “spice and smoke” to food. These traditional buttermilk biscuits are made with cheddar and chipotle powder (which you can make by pulverizing dried chipotle peppers). Buttery and soft, the biscuits are perfect comfort for the cold days of winter. In the book, Matt and Renato suggest serving the biscuits with a big bowl of tomato soup, which I think is a fantastic idea!
What is your favorite way to cook with dried chilies? Let me know in the comments section. Click Here.
