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10 Ways Tuesday: Olive Oil

By Jess On April 24, 2012 · 13 Comments

I’ve got creative recipes for cooking with olive oil during spring:

1. Salad Dressing

Watching Jamie Oliver dress a salad with olive oil gets me excited. He’s easygoing about it, adding a splash of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon- no measuring. He’s passionate, tasting and tossing the leaves, exclaiming over the beauty of a perfect radish or the peppery bite of a well-made olive oil. The man makes beautiful, vibrant salads that are a celebration of the season, and he’s the inspiration behind my Spring Pea and Herb Salad, to be featured on the blog this week. The idea that I take from Jamie Oliver is that a salad doesn’t need a fancy vinaigrette with twenty ingredients. Sometimes, the only thing a salad needs is the lubrication and flavor of a high-quality extra-virgin olive oil. Whether you’re tossing together a simple spring greens salad or a medley of peas, beans, and herbs, the vibrant fresh flavors should stand out and not be overwhelmed by an acidic dressing. Next time you toss together a spring salad, try just using your favorite olive oil, and maybe a squeeze of lemon with a dash of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

2. Vegetables Poached in Olive Oil

I came across this technique for Poached Baby Vegetables with Caper Mayonnaise in Yotam Ottolenghi’s book, Plenty. Vegetables simmered in olive oil, white wine, and aromatics are tender and fresh-tasting, making this method well-suited to spring cooking. Ottolenghi simmers baby fennel, carrot, squash, leeks, and asparagus in the poaching liquor for a short time, until they are crisp tender. Serve them warm, in a pool of the broth with a garnish of homemade mayonnaise. I love the elegant nature of this dish, something we see from chefs in restaurants all the time but don’t often attempt at home.

3. Olive Oil Poured Over Ice Cream

I know it sounds crazy, but I’ve seen this recommended by several cooks. In an interview on NPR’s Fresh Air, Tom Mueller (author of the book, Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil) describes a high-quality extra-virgin olive oil poured over ice cream as “liquid sunshine.” Jamie Oliver includes Gelato con Olio e Sale in the dessert section of his cookbook, Jamie’s Italy, writing that it’s “bloody gorgeous!” His instructions are to add a couple scoops vanilla ice cream to a bowl, then pour over “some very good high quality extra-virgin olive oil, preferably one with a nice grassy, flower flavor, and sprinkle a tiny pinch of sea salt on the top.” Why not give it a try?

4. Hot Roasted Nuts

If you’ve ever tasted a blend of roasted nuts coated in oil and sprinkled with herbs and spices, you’ll agree with me that they can be addictive. I was instantly smitten by the recipe for Pása Témpos (hot roasted nuts) from World Food: Greece, by Susanna Tee, who described the bowls of hot roasted nuts for sale in street stands and cafés of Greece. Her recipe is to pour a couple tablespoons olive oil into a pan to coat and add 1 1/2 cups nuts (pistachio, walnut, or almond). Sprinkle 3 tablespoons fragrant herbs such as oregano or thyme, and 1 teaspoon spices (either cumin or paprika). Roast the nuts in a 325 degree Fahrenheit oven for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

5. Eggs Fried in Olive Oil

A couple years ago I saw Alice Waters on CBS 60 Minutes, frying an egg in olive oil over the open flame of her kitchen fireplace- that’s when I discovered the pleasure of an egg cooked in olive oil, edges brown and crisp, puffy white, runny yolk. It’s a simple pleasure, dependent on high quality ingredients (typical of her cooking style). Now eggs fried in olive oil are my husband’s specialty on our regular breakfast rotation. A couple farmers market eggs and our favorite olive oil make for a delicious breakfast. We don’t have an open fire to cook on, a cast-iron skillet works just fine.

6. Potato Salad

Growing up in the south, I was never a fan of the ubiquitous mayonnaise smothered potato salad. This recipe for French Potato Salad from The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook changed my whole perception on potato salad, and it’s now one of my favorite things to cook. In the book, Ina Garten writes, “Everyone made American potato salad with mayonnaise until Julia Child showed us how to appreciate the freshness and beauty of perfectly cooked potatoes with green herbs and a flavorful vinaigrette.” Half the genius is in the way she cooks the potatoes, boiling them until tender, then draining the potatoes and allowing them to steam in the colander for a few minutes. The creamy texture of the potatoes is complimented By an olive oil, white vinegar, and mustard vinaigrette plus plenty of fresh herbs.

7. Fresh Pasta Tossed with Extra-Virgin Olive Oil

One of my favorite local Boulder restaurants, The Kitchen, serves a dish every spring that I look forward to. Fresh pappardelle pasta tossed simply with extra-virgin olive oil, red chiles, goat cheese, and spring vegetables. It’s light and flavorful, basically a pasta primavera to celebrate spring. There’s something about the tender, handmade pasta, the heat of the chiles, the tang of creamy goat cheese, and the peppery bite of extra-virgin olive oil that makes for a perfect spring lunch. Check out this video and recipe from Mario Batali on Martha Stewart to learn how to make easy fresh pasta at home.

8. Olive Oil Cake

The Frankies, chefs and owners of several restaurants/cafes in New York (including Frankies Spuntino) have such a passion for good olive oil, harvested with care, that they make their own extra-virgin olive oil from their organically grown olives in Sicily. Their bright fruity, grassy olive oil inspired this recipe for Olive Oil Bundt Cake that they claim, “works after a meal and is great for breakfast, but it’s also ideal 3 P.M. pastry- not too sweet, not too heavy, great with a good espresso.” The straightforward cake batter is made with eggs, orange zest, sugar, extra-virgin olive oil, flour, salt, and baking powder. Not only does the oil impart its fruity, complex flavor, but it also makes for a moist cake with a long shelf-life.

9. Mixed Fried Vegetables

I know, you’re afraid to fry food in olive oil. There was that whole thing where we were told not to do that, I remember. Well, according to Mario Batali, “in Rome, the fry everything in olive oil.” It’s true, heating oil above the smoking point can lead to bitter flavors, but Mario says it’s ok to deep fry food in olive oil at a temperature of 375 degrees Fahrenheit. I found this recipe for Fritto Misto di Verdura in his book, Molto Italiano, and loved the way it can be customized to whatever veg you’ve got on hand. Mario tosses sweet peas in the pod, green beans, broccoli, squash, and bell peppers in cornstarch then quickly fries them in hot olive oil. Spring vegetables like asparagus, artichoke, spring onions, fennel, and mushrooms would also be delicious. Frying is fast and easy, and you can bottle up the oil, re-using it a couple times. The mixed fried vegetables would be lovely with a glass of rosé for happy hour with a group of friends.

10. Focaccia

My favorite bread book, Richard Bertinet’s Dough: Simple Contemporary Bread, contains a whole chapter on “Olive Dough.” Bertinet writes that adding olive oil to bread dough imparts a “lovely softness…and resulting in bread with fantastic texture and flavor, which freezes well.” His basic olive dough calls for a fruity olive oil, rather than a peppery, aggressively flavored one, and a bit of semolina to add texture to the bread. My favorite of the recipes is Coarse Salt & Rosemary Focaccia. The olive oil dough is mixed then pressed into a baking sheet with raised sides. More oil is drizzled over the dough, then you press your fingers all over it to form little indentations. After two rises, first 45 minutes, second 30 minutes, the focaccia is baked for half an hour till golden brown. His recipe isn’t available online, but for a similar version, try this Rosemary Focaccia recipe from Saveur.

What is your favorite way to cook with olive oil? Share it in the comments section. Click Here.

Ingredient of the Week: Olive Oil

By Jess On April 22, 2012 · 6 Comments

During spring I begin to crave the freshly pressed, peppery, herbal flavor of olive oil. In the winter months I tend to use butter more in my cooking, but spring is a time for sitting on the patio with a glass of rosé, dragging ragged pieces of crusty bread through a pool of olive oil on my plate. I savor the fruity aroma and bitter finish in the back of my throat. The many varieties of olives mean each olive oil has a unique flavor, from rich and fruity to green and spicy. Explore the world of olive oil the same way you would wine- by tasting. Spring is the season for freshly pressed olive oils from the Northern Hemisphere regions, such as the Mediterranean (including Spain, Italy, and Greece), the Middle East, and California. When buying olive oil, seek out a shop where the owners are passionate about their produce and offer you a taste in the store. Read labels carefully and research producers. According to the book, Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil, it’s good to remember that olive oil is simply the juice of a tree fruit, olives. Virgin oil is made by grinding and extracting the juice from the olive- no chemicals or heat are involved. Extra-virgin refers to the quality of the olive oil, determined to be without any documented faults (rancid flavors, etc.) by professional tasters.

The business of olive oil production is ripe with fraud. Many producers put “Extra-Virgin Olive Oil from Italy” on the label, though the oil may be of terrible quality or diluted with other vegetable oils. Remember, you get what you pay for, and just like with many other types of agriculture, industrialized, sometimes fraudulent producers are able to make their product at a lower cost and then undercut farmers with a passion for high standards in olive oil making. Tasting olive oils will help you identify poor quality and understand what makes excellent olive oil such a special thing.

Unlike wine, olive oil deteriorates with age, so don’t hoard it. Buy only what you will use and store it in a cool, dark place. This week at la Domestique we’ll explore the many ways to enjoy cooking with olive oil during spring. Don’t be afraid to sauté with olive oil, just keep it from getting too hot and smoking, which can bring out bitter flavors. From drizzling over pasta primavera to ice cream, I’ve got creative ideas for cooking with olive oil tomorrow for 10 Ways Tuesday.

What is your favorite olive oil or olive oil region? Share it in the comments section. Click Here.

Cook in the Moment: Braised Halibut and Artichokes

By Jess On April 19, 2012 · 4 Comments

The sky is grey and a cool breeze whips through the tree branches. I watch from my apartment window as they wave back and forth, as if in slow motion, tender spring blossoms quivering. The rain pelts the window, “tap, tap, tap.” “Come in, “ I invite her. On Sunday I enjoy her company like that of an old friend who has been away for too long. Rain is rare in Boulder, Colorado. Snow, however, is a frequent visitor, often overstaying his welcome, as winter becomes spring. This year is off to a dry start, and summer in Colorado will be very dry- dessert like. The unexpected rain shower is a welcome guest I embrace, inhaling her perfume of wet grass, savoring the sound of each drop like laughter between friends. She takes me back to my childhood in Arkansas, where humidity was a constant companion and rain poured readily from the sky. These are good memories of green country fields cloaked in fog, sopping wet clothes from a surprise downpour, and playing in puddles.

I’ve always had a thing for the dark and broody, melancholy mood of a spring storm passing through. These days I savor the naps, cuddled up in a mess of blankets- me and the husband, our little dachshund snuggled between us. I listen as he breathes in and out deeply, and the dog snores softly. I am the last to drift off.

When we wake, the rain is still with us, singing softly. I put the kettle on. “Won’t you join us for some tea?” I ask her. She does not say no. Her presence is a peaceful, calming one, and we spend the day pottering about the apartment. He, watching telly, and me in the kitchen. I’ve got some artichokes and a couple fresh, pearly halibut fillets. The moment feels very much like spring, and I decide to cook a simple dish of braised fish and vegetables in chicken broth. I immerse myself in the task of preparing the artichokes, peeling the stem, cutting away the outer prickly leaves, and scooping out the fuzzy thistle. The rhythm of the raindrops lulls me into a meditative state as I peel, chop, and slice. In less than half an hour we’re at the table, slurping broth and delighting in the sweet, flaky fish. Suddenly it’s quiet, and we realize our Sunday guest is gone. For a moment, spring was at our table, and we savored every drop.

Braised Halibut and Artichokes

Ingredients

1 lemon
2 globe artichokes
2 slices of bacon, diced into 1/4 inch pieces
2 shallots, thinly sliced
2 cups homemade chicken stock
2 5 ounce halibut fillets, skin removed (ask the fishmonger to do this for you)
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon chopped mint
freshly ground pepper

1. Prepare the artichokes. Fill a large glass or ceramic bowl with water. Cut a lemon in half, squeeze the juice into the water, and drop the lemon halves in the water. Use this bowl of acidulated water to keep the artichoke leaves during prepping, which will prevent them turning brown. Use a serrated knife to cut off the top quarter of the artichoke. Rub the top of the artichoke with the cut side of a lemon to prevent browning. Peel off the leaves from the bottom of the artichoke and cut off the stem off at the base. Using your fingers (carefully) or a paring knife, take off all the outer leaves of the artichoke. These leaves are tough and will not tenderize with cooking. Use a spoon to scoop out the hairy inner choke. Separate the tender inner leaves and drop them into the acidulated water. Set the bowl of water and artichoke leaves aside until ready to cook.

2. Heat a heavy, non-reactive pot (such as an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven) to medium heat. Add the diced bacon and cook for about 4 minutes until browned and the fat rendered. Toss in sliced shallot and sauté 1 minute more.

3. Drain the artichoke leaves and pat dry with a paper towel. Toss the artichoke leaves into the pot with the bacon and shallot. Stir to combine and then pour in the chicken stock. Bring the liquid to a simmer and cover the pot, cooking for about 10 minutes, until the artichoke leaves are just tender.

4. Season the broth with 1/4 teaspoon salt and place the halibut fillets in the pot. Slice the 1/2 tablespoon butter in half and put a piece of butter atop each halibut fillet. Cover the pot with the lid, and let it simmer five minutes more, until the halibut is just cooked through and flakes easily with a fork. Just before serving, garnish with chopped mint and freshly ground pepper. Serve with boiled potatoes or pasta.

Each week I contribute a column to the Whole Foods Market Cooking Boulder Website. For more on the full article and more on this recipe, click here.

10 Ways Tuesday: Halibut

By Jess On April 17, 2012 · 6 Comments

I’ve got creative recipes for cooking with Halibut during spring:

1. Braised Halibut on the Stovetop

My favorite way to cook halibut is Eric Ripert’s Braised Halibut with Peas. It begins with sautéed bacon pieces, then onions, peas, and lettuce. Halibut is nestled into the vegetables, simmered in chicken stock for just a few minutes until cooked through. The result is a bacon-infused broth and tender, flaky, halibut fillets. I love this technique so much I simplified it to one pot and made it my inspiration for Braised Halibut and Artichokes, a recipe to be featured on the blog later this week.

2. Ceviche

In Fiesta at Rick’s, there is a recipe for Frontera Grill’s Now-Classic Ceviche showcasing the sweet flavor and firm flesh of halibut. The sushi-grade halibut is cut into 1/2-inch cubes, then marinated in lime juice with chopped white onion in the fridge for half an hour (for medium rare) or up to 3-4 hours for “cooked” all the way through. Finely chopped hot green chiles (serranos or jalapeño), green olives, sun-dried tomatoes, and cilantro are added to the “cooked” fish, which is then seasoned with salt and a pinch of sugar. Serve the halibut ceviche with corn chips as an appetizer for happy hour on the patio with a nice cold cerveza.

3. Grilled Halibut Steaks

I can always look to The London River Cafe cookbooks for the simplest, most delicious celebration of an ingredient. In Two Easy, I found instructions for bone-in halibut steaks brushed with olive oil and cooked quickly on the grill (about 4 minutes total). Serve with a squeeze of lemon and fresh, herbal salsa verde ( a sauce of parsley, mint, garlic, capers, anchovies, and olive oil). It’s a beautifully fresh meal for this season of dining al fresco.

4. Fish and Fennel Stew

The book, Ancient Grains for Modern Meals, is a treasure trove of inspiring recipes rooted in history. I was especially drawn to this light, spring/summer fish stew infused with the Greek anise flavored liquor, Ouzo. Tomatoes, fennel, bay leaf, and garlic are simmered with cubed halibut and served over whole wheat couscous. Being outside stimulates the appetite, and this fish stew is satisfying without being heavy- perfect for spring!

5. Roasted Halibut with Crisp Walnut-Breadcrumb Crust

The firm texture of halibut and its ability to withstand heat make the fish perfect for coating with breadcrumbs and dry roasting. This recipe forRoasted Halibut with Walnut Crust involves brushing the top of halibut fillets with melted butter, then coating with a mixture of chopped walnuts, panko, parsley, basil, and chives, then roasting in a 450 degree oven for about 8 minutes. Panko is a fine, very crisp Japanese breadcrumb that’s widely available and once you try it you’ll never go back to making your own. The fish is tender and flaky, with a very crisp and delicious crust- easy and yet a meal that seems special.

6. Curried Halibut

This sunny, sultry recipe for Indian-Spiced Halibut with Yogurt from The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook: New Classics, is a simple curry that will brighten up a rainy April day. The spice blend is a mixture of curry powder, fenugreek, mustard, cardamom, and cloves. Garlic, ginger and brown sugar are added to the mix along with some water to form a paste. Sauté the curry with thinly sliced onion and a green chile, adding the halibut fillets, stock, and tomatoes. Simmer for about 6 minutes until the fish is cooked, then serve with yogurt.

7. Olive Oil-Poached Halibut

The recipe for Olive Oil-Poached Halibut with Roasted Beets and Blood Oranges from The Young Man and the Sea is a much-needed infusion of color in our early spring cooking. According to Chef David Pasternack, “Poaching fish in olive oil gives it a luxe texture…poaching-the gentlest form of cooking-gives the fish a terrific, clean flavor.” 10 cups of olive oil are heated in a Dutch oven with rosemary, garlic, and chile. Once the oil comes to a simmer, the aromatics are removed, and the halibut fillets are added to the pot to cook for about 6 minutes. The halibut is served with a roasted beet and blood orange salad, salt, and freshly ground pepper. Or, use this technique to cook the fish and come up with your own colorful spring garnishes.

8. Steamed in Sake with Asian Flavors

I’m really into this recipe for Sake-Steamed Halibut with Ginger and Cabbage- it’s light, nourishing, and full of flavor. Shredded cabbage, sliced leeks, and fresh ginger are sautéed until tender. Halibut fillets are added to the pan with a splash of sake and simmered for a few minutes. Garnish with shaved cauliflower and sliced scallions.

9. Pan Roasted

Searing fish in a hot pan then finishing it in the oven yields a crisp, golden crust and tender, flaky flesh. The firm texture of halibut is well-suited to this quick cooking technique. In Ad Hoc at Home, Thomas Keller’s recipe for Pan-Roasted Halibut calls for halibut fillets to be seared in a hot, oiled pan for about 7 minutes, then transferred to the oven until cooked through (another couple of minutes). Lastly, “flip the fish over, and “kiss” the second side for about 30 seconds. Keller serves this simply prepared fish with a sprinkling of flour de sel, on a bed of sautéed chanterelles and green pea shoots.

10. Instead of Tuna Salad, Try Halibut Salad

A chef at Glacier Bay Country Inn in Alaska came up with this recipe for Halibut Salad to use up leftover halibut. Just like tuna salad, the recipe uses a mayonnaise base flavored with celery, scallions, and dill. This idea could inspire endless variations- green garlic, radish, lemon, caper, basil- my mind is overwhelmed by the flavor possibilities. So if you’ve got a bit of leftover halibut from last night’s supper, turn it into a gourmet lunch with some rye bread and pickles.

What is your favorite way to cook with halibut? Share it in the comments section. Click Here.

Ingredient of the Week: Halibut

By Jess On April 15, 2012 · Add Comment

Halibut is the ingredient of the week at la Domestique. Yes, even fish is a seasonal ingredient. This largest of the flatfish is a bottom dweller from the North Pacific Ocean. The average size is 50-100 pounds, though the biggest halibut caught on record weighed almost 500 pounds! Fresh halibut is available in the United States from March to September. According to the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Guide, Best Choice halibut is wild caught, from the Pacific, mostly Alaska. Look for MSC certified fish (Marine Stewardship Council), which means the fisheries are sustainable, using lines that don’t accidentally catch marine mammals or seabirds, degrade habitats, or deplete populations.

Halibut is a firm-fleshed white fish with a delicate, sweet flavor. It stands up to heat well, and so can be braised, grilled, or pan seared more easily than delicate sole or tilapia. In Ad Hoc at Home, Thomas Keller advises that when buying fish at market,

“Your fish should smell clean, like the fresh ocean, not fishy like low tide..and the flesh should have elasticity…fillets should look moist…and if it’s a white fish, there should be almost a translucence to the flesh.”

Halibut is not cheap, ranging from $20-$30/pound, but it is delicious, and pairs beautifully with spring ingredients like asparagus, artichoke, onions, garlic, radishes, and fresh herbs. Keep an eye out for price specials at the market and take advantage of a sale. Also, watch for fluctuations in price, as the cost of halibut per pound may drop throughout the season. Tomorrow is 10 Ways Tuesday, and I’ve got elegant spring recipe ideas for cooking with halibut. It’s important to support the seasonality of seafood, as many fisheries stockpile and freeze fish to supply us throughout the year, which not only drives up the price of seafood, but deprives the availability of freshly caught fish. For those of you close to the ocean, there may be a seafood CSA available where you can support local, sustainable fisheries. This week at la Domestique, we celebrate sustainable, seasonal seafood with halibut.

What are your thoughts on sustainable seafood? Do you participate in a seafood CSA? Share your impressions in the comments section. Click Here.

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